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Daihatsu Hijet Engine Parts - S100, S110 Models - 1994-1998
Parts for the 659cc EF engine: carbureted EF-NS, injected EF-ES, turbo EF-TS, and the DOHC EF-GS, EF-ZS, EF-RS trio. Parts follow the engine series, not the year, so read the ENGINE line on your plate first.
Engine parts for the 659cc EF engine in the Daihatsu Hijet S100 and S110, 1994 to 1998. The range covers the carbureted EF-NS, the injected EF-ES, the turbocharged EF-TS and the DOHC EF-GS, EF-ZS and EF-RS trio from late 1995.
Read the ENGINE code on your plate before ordering; parts are engine-code specific.
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Engine parts follow the engine series rather than the year, so read the ENGINE line on your identification plate before you order.
The figures published on this page apply only to the engine codes each one names.
Find Your Truck
Engine parts on these trucks follow the engine series, not a calendar year. Your ID plate names it on the ENGINE line, EF-NS, EF-ES, EF-TS, or one of the DOHC codes, sitting right under the S100 or S110 chassis number. Read that series first, because the carbureted plus injected engines rarely share a belt, gasket, or pump.
The identification plate carries the CHASSIS NO. and the ENGINE line. Send us a photo of it if you are not sure which engine you have.
Up close: read the CHASSIS NO, it starts with S100 or S110, then the ENGINE line. The one shown is an S100, EF-NS truck.
Your ID plate names it on the ENGINE line. Read it before you order anything.
10.0 kg/cm²The least compression a cylinder can show and still be good, or 142 psi, cranked at 400 rpm. Turbo engines read 9.0. The cheapest test there is before you pay for a used engine.
11 to 13 mmThe gap you set the timing belt tensioner to. There is no sprung auto tensioner on this engine, so that gap is the belt tension. Too loose and the belt jumps teeth.
1-2-3Firing order, straight through from one to three. A crossed pair hides as a rough idle rather than a truck that will not start.
0.9 to 1.0 mmSpark plug gap, the same on all three engines. The plug itself is not, so add your engine code at checkout and we will match it before shipping.
The belt is a 100,000 km item. Replace it early if it has ever been soaked in oil or coolant. Seals go when you see oil tracking down the lower covers.
During a timing belt job. The covers are already off and the pump is right there, so it is cheap insurance while you are in.
Mounts
Engine mounts left and right, transmission mounts, mount cushions, PTO brackets.
A clunk when you get on the throttle. Cracked rubber you can see from underneath.
Inspection & Service
Intervals and inspection criteria. An inspection interval is not a replacement interval, and guidance we add from experience is labelled as ours.
Oil
EF-NS and EF-ES
EF-TS turbo
Grade
5W-30, API SE
10W-30, API SF
Capacity, filter left on
2.7 L
2.7 L
Capacity with a new filter
3.1 L
3.1 L
Dipstick LOW to FULL
1.0 L
1.0 L
Change interval
10,000 km
5,000 km
Filter interval
10,000 km
10,000 km
Or six months, whichever comes first. The turbo runs its oil half as long. The six-month figure comes from the material used for this collection and has not been independently reverified.
Drive belt deflection
Straight after fitting
After it has run
A new belt
6.0 to 7.0 mm
8.5 to 12.0 mm
A used belt
7.5 to 8.5 mm
8.5 to 12.0 mm
Measured under a 10 kgf push. Run it 5 minutes before you recheck.
What it is. A rubber belt with teeth on the inside. It keeps the top half of the engine turning in step with the bottom half. Slip one tooth and the engine runs rough, or will not start.
Why it matters when you are ordering. Six repairs on this engine begin by taking it off: the two front oil seals, the head gasket, the valve seals, the oil pump, and the pistons. Buy any of those and the belt is coming off anyway.
Factory timing-belt system layout showing the belt, tensioner, crankshaft pulley, water-pump pulley, alternator and accessory-belt drive.
Factory oil-pump exploded view showing the oil pump, gasket, oil strainer, oil pan and related mounting components.
Even if the timing belt looks fine, replace it if any of these 3 instances are present
It has had coolant on it.
It has had oil on it.
Something has jammed the engine.
So if your water pump was leaking, you need a belt too.
Internal Engine & Rebuild
Pistons A turbo takes its own, 0.01 mm narrower. The whole clearance is only 0.04 mm, so never put naturally aspirated pistons in a turbo.
Piston sizes Three from the factory, not one, stamped on the piston. Measure your bore before you order.
Factory cylinder-head exploded view showing the head cover, cylinder head, head gasket and related intake and exhaust components.
Factory piston and connecting-rod exploded view showing the piston, rings, pin, connecting rod, rod cap and bearing.
Item
Standard
Service limit
Cylinder head warp
flat
0.10 mm
Head height after skimming
100 mm
99.8 mm
Block deck warp
flat
0.08 mm
Piston to bore clearance
0.025 to 0.045 mm
0.10 mm
Top ring end gap
0.25 to 0.40 mm
0.65 mm
Oil ring end gap
0.2 to 0.7 mm
1.0 mm
Main bearing oil clearance
0.020 to 0.044 mm
0.07 mm
Crankshaft runout
true
0.03 mm
Crank end float
0.02 to 0.22 mm
0.30 mm
Bore ovality and taper
not printed
0.03 mm
Oil pump tip clearance
0.17 to 0.24 mm
0.35 mm
Oil pump body clearance
0.10 to 0.185 mm
0.25 mm
You get 0.2 mm of skim on this head. Total. Ask what a machine shop has already taken off a used one.
A worn bore gets bored bigger and takes a bigger piston. A worn crank journal gets ground smaller and takes a thicker bearing. Daihatsu catalogued a set number of those steps and no more.
When this wears out
How many times you can do it
Cylinder bores and pistons
Four: 0.25, 0.50, 0.75 and 1.00 mm over
Crank main journals
Twice: 0.25 and 0.50 mm under
Crank pins and rod bearings
Twice: 0.25 and 0.50 mm under
Crankshaft end float
Two oversize thrust washers
Valve guides
The guide bush was only ever sold oversize
Those steps run out. A block already bored 1.00 over has nothing left. Worth asking before you buy a used engine, because nothing on the outside tells you.
Oiwa guidance.Buy rings as a set from one maker, and put every piston back in the cylinder it came out of.
Troubleshooting & Checks
A symptom tells you where to look. It is not a diagnosis, and it is not a reason to order a component on its own. Confirm the part before you buy it.
What you notice
What to check
Oil consumption, or compression that has dropped off
Bottom end. Confirm with a compression test before ordering. The figures are in Specifications.
Oil tracking down the lower covers
Camshaft and crankshaft seals.
Oil weeping at the cover edges
Valve cover and timing cover gasket joints.
An exhaust tick that quiets down once it warms
Intake and exhaust manifold gasket joints.
Coolant showing at the pump weep hole
Water pump. A pump that has leaked means the timing belt is replaced with it.
Slow warm-up, or the needle creeping up a long grade
Thermostat. Slow warm-up usually means the thermostat.
A clunk when you get on the throttle
Engine and transmission mounts. Look for cracked rubber from underneath.
A rough idle
A crossed pair in the firing order. The order is 1-2-3.
Runs rough, or will not start
A timing belt that has slipped a tooth.
Rockers clatter, or a stripped rocker thread
Rocker shaft torque. It differs by engine code. See Specifications.
Installation & Service
Five ways people ruin a brand new belt
Levering the old one off with a screwdriver.
Folding or kinking it.
Putting a used one back facing the other way.
Turning the engine over from the top pulley instead of the bottom one.
Reusing one with cracks.
SS1E1057. Prevent rotation with a screwdriver during pulley installation.
SS1E1065. Timing-belt tensioner setup using the M6-bolt method and thickness gauge.
SS1E1066. Timing-belt tensioner gap measurement point, 11 to 13 mm.
SS1E1067. Crankshaft timing-pulley flange orientation, showing the outside direction.
Head bolts and rod caps go on oiled threads. Torque them dry and the joint ends up loose.
Valve stem seals Same seal, two fittings. EF-NS and EF-TS press to a set depth with a tool. The EF-ES goes on by hand.
Job
What has to be new
Cylinder head
Head gasket, intake manifold gasket, front exhaust pipe gasket
Every fuel hose gasket. On automatics, the oil cooler gaskets and hoses
Anything, anywhere
Always replace packings and gaskets with new parts
Specifications
Valve gap The slack between the rocker arm and the top of the valve. Set cold.
Idle speed Where the engine sits warm, in neutral, foot off the pedal.
Ignition timing How far before the piston tops out the plug fires.
The setting
EF-NS carbureted
EF-ES injected
EF-TS turbo
Valve gap, intake, cold
0.18 ± 0.05 mm
0.20 ± 0.05 mm
0.18 ± 0.05 mm
Valve gap, exhaust, cold
0.25 ± 0.05 mm
0.30 ± 0.05 mm
0.25 ± 0.05 mm
Idle speed
950 ± 50 rpm
850 ± 50 rpm
900 ± 50 rpm
Ignition timing
7° at 950 rpm
5° at 850 rpm
10° at 900 rpm
What you are tightening
EF-NS and EF-TS
EF-ES
The rocker cover, the lid on top
48 in·lb
65 in·lb
The rocker shaft underneath it
15 ft·lb
29 ft·lb
The rocker shaft is the one that bites. Nearly double on an EF-ES. Too loose and the rockers clatter, too tight and you strip the thread.
How tight every bolt goes
Fastener
kg·cm
N·m
ft·lb
Cylinder head bolts
500-600
53.9
39.8
Main bearing caps
540-660
58.8
43.4
Connecting-rod caps
310-430
36.3
26.8
Crank pulley
900-1,100
98.1
72.3
Camshaft timing pulley
600-900
73.5
54.2
Timing-belt tensioner
400 ± 80
39.2
28.9
Distributor
195 ± 39
19.1
14.1
Intake manifold
195 ± 39
19.1
14.1
Front exhaust pipe
495 ± 75
48.5
35.8
Oil pump
200 ± 40
19.6
14.5
Oil pan
70 ± 5
6.9
5.1
Oil strainer
80 ± 16
7.8
5.8
Oil pan drain plug
250 ± 50
24.5
18.1
Powertrain stiffener
185 ± 35
18.1
13.4
A/C compressor bracket
620 ± 120
60.8
44.8
Alternator, upper mount
300 ± 60
29.4
21.7
Alternator, lower mount
400 ± 80
39.2
28.9
Spark plug
150-210
17.7
13.0
Every engine number on one screen
What you are checking
The figure
Compression, naturally aspirated
10.0 kg/cm² or more at 400 rpm
Compression, turbo
9.0 kg/cm² or more at 400 rpm
Spark plug gap
0.9 to 1.0 mm
Valve gap cold, EF-NS and EF-TS
0.18 intake, 0.25 exhaust, ± 0.05 mm
Valve gap cold, EF-ES
0.20 intake, 0.30 exhaust, ± 0.05 mm
Idle speed
950 EF-NS, 850 EF-ES, 900 EF-TS, ± 50 rpm
Timing belt tensioner gap
11 to 13 mm
Drive belt deflection, settled
8.5 to 12.0 mm
Oil capacity with a new filter
3.1 L
Oil change interval
10,000 km, or 5,000 km on the turbo
Head skim available
0.2 mm total, down to 99.8 mm
Piston width, smallest factory size
67.965 to 67.975 mm, turbo 67.955 to 67.965 mm
Valve stem seal depth
17.0 to 17.8 mm, except EF-ES
Oil pump relief valve opens
4.6 to 5.4 kg/cm²
Accelerator pedal free play
1 to 4 mm
Source: the Daihatsu factory service manual for these trucks.
Factory Notes
The figures on this page cover the engine codes they name. The source material used for this collection sets out values for EF-NS, EF-ES and EF-TS. It does not establish separate figures for the DOHC EF-GS, EF-ZS and EF-RS engines, so nothing here should be read across to them. Add your ENGINE code at checkout and we will confirm the part before shipping.
Where the identification plate is mounted is not stated here. Our sources disagree on its location, so rather than print one of them we have left it out. The plate itself carries the CHASSIS NO. and the ENGINE line wherever it sits. Send us a photo if you cannot find it.
There is no oil pressure spec for this engine. Daihatsu never printed one. So if someone quotes you an oil pressure number for an EF, it did not come from this manual. The one pressure the book gives is the oil pump relief valve, 4.6 to 5.4 kg/cm². This is what the source material used for this collection shows, and it has not been independently reverified against the complete factory literature.
Piston to bore clearance is described two ways. The note in Internal Engine & Rebuild says the whole clearance is only 0.04 mm. The wear table gives a standard of 0.025 to 0.045 mm and a service limit of 0.10 mm. Both are reproduced as printed. We have not chosen between them.
Where can I buy Daihatsu Hijet engine parts in the United States?
Daihatsu Hijet engine parts are available from Oiwa Garage for S100 and S110 models. Availability varies by part, so check the individual product page. Not sure you selected the right part? Add your ENGINE code plus your CHASSIS NO. at checkout, or send a photo of the identification plate, and we’ll verify fitment before shipping.
Our 100% Fitment Guarantee
Add your VIN or chassis number at checkout and we verify the fitment of every part in your order before anything ships. We check your full chassis code and the engine series on your ENGINE line, EF-NS, EF-ES, EF-TS or one of the DOHC codes, because engine parts follow the series rather than the year. If anything does not match your truck, we contact you before dispatch. If something arrives wrong, we exchange it or refund you in full. No hassle, no runaround.